I suck at drywall

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Endo Rockstar
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Re: I suck at drywall

Postby Endo Rockstar » Wed Jun 05, 2013 10:14 am

Stebben84 wrote:
jonnygothispen wrote:I've tried a bunch of the "quick-set" dry plasters that you have to add water too. Yes it sets fast, and you can sponge it sooner, but it still can't be sanded for a couple days anyway.


When I moved into my house I had a lot of loose plaster on the walls. Mind you, this is not drywall, but scratch coat plaster coming up. Not wanted to actually spend 3 years as a journeyman learning actual plastering techniques, I research alternative products and came up with one called Durabond. There many different types, but I used 45, 60 and 90. The lower the number the quicker the dry time, but the softer the surface. I ended up using 90 which had a sandable dry time of about 2 hours and mimicked the resilience of the plaster the closest. It is a dry compound, but I have had some experience mixing actual plaster so I am comfortable with the ratios.

It took a few applications, but I got pretty damn good at large plaster repairs. I think I ended up with tow passes(real plaster work should take one, and if you've ever seen a someone do good plaster work, it's pretty impressive) It sands pretty will with about a 120 grit and nothing more. I even used a disk sander at real low speed and all was well. It was a dusty friggin mess, but in the end, I think I'm the only one who will know where the patches were.

Granted, this isn't drywall, but it's in the family. So if you need a quick drying compound, go with the Durabond.


Thank you for the advice, I will definitely look into it. I have a ton of lathe and plaster in the house too.

I'm finally putting the sand texture on the walls this week. the damp weather last week slowed the drying time on the joint compound a bit on the first two passes.

I'll post a picture when its done.

-Dan Motor

snoqueen
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Re: I suck at drywall

Postby snoqueen » Wed Jun 05, 2013 10:24 am

In a previous existence I did a lot of mudding. Durabond 90 (the 90 is supposed to mean 90 minutes but 2 hours is better), 120 and then 220 sandpaper, and a big wide trowel are what you need. The big wide trowel flattens out a wider area across the tape so it'll show less when you are done. If you get one of those sanding tools that attaches to a long handle -- it's a flat pad thing on which you can replace the sandpaper as needed -- it'll make the sanding easier. I do not like using a power sander because you can scratch up the paper on adjacent wallboard. They'll sell you little pieces of screen to sand with, but they aren't fine enough for most people's preferences.

Drywall screws inserted with a power drill that has one of those pressure-sensitive brakes and will stop just before the screw head tears the paper are the best way to attach the wallboard. (The books tell you to insert them in pairs about 1-1/2 inches apart, though I don't know why.) You end up with a tidy little dimple for each screw, easily hidden with mud. The old timers can do the same with a hammer and nails, but learning that trick isn't worth it for occasional do-it-yourselfing.

It's your house, Motor, but the next owner will probably want to murder you for putting on the sand texture. Once it's on, the only good way to get rid of it is tear the whole damn wall out. If I could find whoever did this to my kitchen, I'd happily do something very mean to them.

But it's YOUR house and I hope it turns out just the way you want.

Stebben84
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Re: I suck at drywall

Postby Stebben84 » Wed Jun 05, 2013 10:44 am

Endo Rockstar wrote:Thank you for the advice, I will definitely look into it. I have a ton of lathe and plaster in the house too.


Just Google some home improvement websites for more advice. I think Bob Villa's was a big help if I remember correctly.

Endo Rockstar
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Re: I suck at drywall

Postby Endo Rockstar » Wed Jun 05, 2013 10:45 am

snoqueen wrote:In a previous existence I did a lot of mudding. Durabond 90 (the 90 is supposed to mean 90 minutes but 2 hours is better), 120 and then 220 sandpaper, and a big wide trowel are what you need. The big wide trowel flattens out a wider area across the tape so it'll show less when you are done. If you get one of those sanding tools that attaches to a long handle -- it's a flat pad thing on which you can replace the sandpaper as needed -- it'll make the sanding easier. I do not like using a power sander because you can scratch up the paper on adjacent wallboard. They'll sell you little pieces of screen to sand with, but they aren't fine enough for most people's preferences.

Drywall screws inserted with a power drill that has one of those pressure-sensitive brakes and will stop just before the screw head tears the paper are the best way to attach the wallboard. (The books tell you to insert them in pairs about 1-1/2 inches apart, though I don't know why.) You end up with a tidy little dimple for each screw, easily hidden with mud. The old timers can do the same with a hammer and nails, but learning that trick isn't worth it for occasional do-it-yourselfing.

It's your house, Motor, but the next owner will probably want to murder you for putting on the sand texture. Once it's on, the only good way to get rid of it is tear the whole damn wall out. If I could find whoever did this to my kitchen, I'd happily do something very mean to them.

But it's YOUR house and I hope it turns out just the way you want.


Sno, thanks for the advice -- it'll come in handy.

As for the sand texture, I'm with ya -- I'm trying to blend and match the texture from the other walls so I don't have much of a choice. -- the tricky part is the texture has been painted over about 3 times, so I'm probably going to apply the sanded primer, then give it another coat of regular primer to give it same look before I match the color.

I'm kicking myself for not buying one of those drywall screw adapters for my cordless drill though. We were really trying to keep our costs down, because the majority of the money went to fixing the roof. The process of driving down those buggers to the perfect height takes a little more finesse but since I didn't have a huge area to deal with it worked okay.

-Dan Motor

jonnygothispen
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Re: I suck at drywall

Postby jonnygothispen » Thu Jun 06, 2013 10:40 am

The advantage of using 80 grit first is that it takes out any of the the waves in the trowel application-You can't feel any "waves" in the wall.

The other big advantage is that it is much faster this way. If you just use 120, it takes forever to bring down to flush. I stayed with 120 or 150 for the feathering and finish sanding because I can't spot any sanding scratches through the paint.

I don't use 80 to feather into the drywall, but just to bring the mud close to flush with it. Obviously, you can't sand the paper on the drywall with 80 as it goes thru fairly fast.

Apparently it's not the common way to do it, but it does work: You can't see the seams.

I have some experience with sanding Bondo on cars, but other than giving you some sanding coordination, it's mostly a different animal: Bondo is harder material than plaster, The paints used on cars show every flaw in the surfaces, so you typically have to use at least 400 grit for finish sanding.


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